T.J. Buckley's Uptown Dining
132 Elliot St., Brattleboro, VT, (802) 257-4922
Hours: Wed.-Sun. 6-10 p.m.
Entrees: $35
Cash only; reservations strongly recommended
Sometimes all of a restaurant's forces align to create an unforgettable experience that is much more than just a meal. In my year and a half writing this column, I've been surprised to discover just how elusive that magical formula is. From the moment I ducked into the tiny railroad dining car on a side street in Brattleboro and walked past chef Michael Fuller intently focused alone at the stove at T.J. Buckley's I somehow knew I was in for something special.
The former diner's facade is still decked out in red, black and silver, but inside the 20 seats are set with crisp white linens and meticulously polished mismatched antique silver. The room's petite proportions are maximized by a feeling of ship-shape orderliness, from the gleaming stemware hanging above the server's station to the lustrous oak trim lining the walls. A sprig of lavender in a little bud vase on each table is at once lovely and modest.
The main attraction is the spot-lit spectacle of the chef lavishing each plate with careful attention in his one-man kitchen. Fuller glides between his burners and butcher block deftly, as if no one were watching, in a white chef coat with the top button flapped open. His movements are seamless and soundless, save the hiss of wine deglazing a pan or the clink of tongs touching a hot sizzle plate.
There is no menu—the servers describe orally and in detail the three or four finely wrought creations available each night. The choices change every week. Limited seatings are offered and the controlled pace allows Fuller to prepare each meal individually. This kind of intimate, chef-driven restaurant is more Old World than New England.
Fuller's food is elaborate but not labored, achieving sophistication and thoughtfulness without being heady. His signature country pork and veal pate, for example, is rustic in texture but garnished with a gorgeous, intricate arrangement of shaved apple and pear slices overlapping like petals. The spread includes traditional condiments like whole grain mustard, cornichons and water crackers, but the addition of a spicy ginger-pear chutney is an inspired foil to the other strong flavors.
Cold accompaniments are an unusual specialty at T.J. Buckley's. A refreshing chilled apple relish helps integrate the many elements in a rich composition of spinach-stuffed quail paired with duck leg confit and white beans. Cool caponata of eggplant and tomato adds interest to a wonderfully chewy hanger steak with buttermilk mashed potatoes, baby turnips and grilled asparagus.
Attention to detail makes even the simplest dishes full of surprises and deep satisfaction. A tart made with asiago and fontina cheese, basil, pine nuts and oven roasted tomato is made memorable by a perfectly crumbly crust. Smoked trout tartlett is mellow and subtle, but brought to life by a dollop of crème fraiche topped with caviar.
Just as it's hard to go wrong with any of the four entrees, T.J. Buckley's select wine list contains only good options, many of which are actually affordable. Adding to the cozy feeling in the restaurant, our server poured our Latour white Burgundy and then whisked the bottle off to the fridge to stay chilled.
Miraculously, all of these warm touches add to T.J. Buckley's romance without being pretentious. Highly skilled, casual service creates a feeling of comfort and pampering along with the sense of being left in peace. The cumulative effect is a surprisingly relaxed setting in which to savor phenomenal food. "
