In Holyoke, where Catholic is spoken by the city’s Irish and Hispanics, the tradition of fish on Friday continues to be observed. Gabriel Quaglia, the proprietor of Tramore Chip Shop (pronounced TraMORE), is 28 years old. He and his wife named the shop after visiting a town of the same name on a trip with the in-laws to Ireland.
Gabe’s wife Sara works the shop on Fridays when things heat up, and the regulars know the menu by heart. It is very basic fare made by a very attentive chef who wants to bring a new twist to this old standard. What with the addition of things like crab cakes, fried clam bellies and strips, shrimp, scallops and chowder to the menu, there’s more going on behind the green screen door than one would think.
Located near Blessed Sacrament Church on Route 5 (37 Myrtle Ave., Holyoke), this hole in the wall has been serving a staple of fish and chips for decades. Tramore is the latest incarnation of the place. It opened in February and the faithful continue the weekly tradition of leaving the car running while they race in to pick up bulging brown bags of fish and chips, the original fast food.
But things have changed. It is no longer a sin to eat meat on Friday; now this fast-food place stakes its claim to sustainability. The cooking oil is made from soy and has no trans fat. It is skimmed, changed often and recycled for use by owners of “greasecars.” If that’s not enough, the fries are made from fresh potatoes and gluten-free oil used for those with tolerance issues. The locavore rating is very high because local veggies are used in some of the dishes. Paper City (Holyoke-based) beer flavors the batter; its Rollie’s soda is sold here as well. Also, the owner walks to work.
First and foremost, order the fish and chips. The potatoes are local, as are the carrots in the slaw, but most importantly, it’s the restaurant’s signature dish and it must be sampled first. The sweetness in the batter comes from the Dan Ale, somewhat of an amber beer. A trinity of carrot, cabbage and mayo makes up the slaw, but what adds interest to this version is the addition of honey and apple cider vinegar.
Might be best to stay away from the crab cakes if you’re a crazy foodie. The crab cakes are light and good, consisting of potato, onion, fresh thyme and parsley. The crab is imitation, but who expects fresh crab at a fish and chips place?
The clam chowder is the New England variety, velvety and sweet. The clams are quite real and the soup is simmered slowly with whole cream. Its mirepoix beginnings give the chowder authenticity and depth.
For those brought up with a weekly fish and chips habit, Tramore’s version of the dish brings it all back home. The cod is fried to a crisp in sweet batter and the chips steam when you bite into them. A final anointment of vinegar, tartar sauce, ketchup and salt provides a wallop of memory—cold Friday evenings with a squalling baby in the high chair, the family’s ravenous consummation of the sanctioned meal, a howling wind outside with rain pelting the front door… here comes the priest dropping by for a wee bit of the taste. Of course, I’m really not objective. The mere smell of frying oil and I’m off to the confessional, bold as a stump with a tale to tell. But I digress.
Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Tramore serves all manner of fried fish. Gabriel and his lads bob and weave behind the counter to keep the chips coming and the fish hot and crisp. They do a brisk business on Fridays, so order ahead by calling 413-533-4319.
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