Artisan’s Café and Gallery
1 Open Square, Holyoke, 413-532-9535
Mon.-Fri. 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. , Sat. 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Free delivery and WiFi
Been to Holyoke since artists took the place of mill workers? While Open Square is not new, the Artisan Cafe and Gallery has taken over for Black Sheep Bakery and been in business for over a year. Owner Ricky “Don’t call me Luis” Agudelo has expanded the menu. He’s also keeping the cafe open until 5 p.m. and is providing a performance space on Friday nights.
Specials on blackboards in the loft space include “The Key West Sandwich” and other creations. Black Sheep Bakery continues to provide scones, muffins and sourdough bread, and a full retinue of fresh ground coffees and teas make this place a natural for the 7 a.m. wakeup call. Argudelo’s new offerings are attracting such strange bedfellows as the Mass. Academy of Ballet, The Teacher’s Loft, the National Yiddish Book Center and people from nearby Holyoke Gas and Electric.
What used to be confined to upstairs exhibit space is now on the walls, tables and floor of the cafe. Art covering the exposed brick walls is curated by a book that Ricky Agudelo keeps handy for people to pencil in when they want to show. “I’m too busy to be an art critic,” says the man who works from six to six and has a kid, a wife and a burgeoning interest in everything. He ran the St. Patrick’s Day race, catered a party and had a party, all in the same day!
There is nothing more fascinating than the manic chef, especially if he or she can cook, as this one apparently can. The place is busy and the menu eclectic in a way that is edgy but not so much so that you can’t get a reliable bowl of New England Clam in the traditional style, not too creamy and with fresh potatoes, onions and decent-sized clams—and on a Saturday, no less.
In mixed-culture environments, food is a great leveler. Daily specials here include something for everyone: macaroni and cheese (Monday), chicken stew on rice (Tuesday), tamale pie (Wednesday), lasagna (Thursday) and shepherd’s pie (Fridays), all of which must be more than standard fare, judging by the lunch rush.
An artisan friend turned me on to the place, touting the food but especially Ricky’s love of all things artistic. On the Saturday we were there, it was packed. While we waited for Black Sheep baguette and Nutty Goat salad, the window tables looking out over the complex of old factory buildings were occupied by businesspeople as well as artists. Two people operated laptops at opposite ends of the green velvet couch. The decor is sui generis, eked out with Salvation Army furniture and bits of art such as a piece of sculpture shaped like the grill of a clown car and a surrealistic chessboard.
My friend’s sandwich did not stray from the usual soothing combination of mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes and pesto. All salads can be ordered with an addition of tuna or grilled chicken; I chose the former for my dish. The greens, crisp and fresh, were accompanied by cucumber, onion, sprouts, tomatoes, cranberries, almonds and goat cheese; not bad for factory food. We both chose locavore beverages. My friend had a Rollie’s Carrot Ginger soda (made in Holyoke) and I opted for tap water.
Later I returned to sample a Key West sandwich special. Consisting of chicken, ham and cheese on whole wheat with a chipotle aioli, this version of the traditional lunch stalwart with pressed ham, cheese, pickle and secret sauce was muy messy but tasty. At the counter, a lively discussion ensued about Hemingway’s love for single-malt Scotch and how much Key West has changed, but hasn’t everything? One hundred years ago, the rooms containing the new Artisan’s Café and Gallery did not have wifi.•
