Allium
42/44 Railroad Street, Great Barrington
(413) 528-2118
Sun.-Thu. 5-9:30 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5-10 p.m.
Entrees $18-34
The alliums—a family of crops including onions, garlic and leeks—are rarely the centerpiece of any meal, but they provide the essential foundations for the majority of savory dishes. The name allium suggests humble simplicity. Simplicity abounds at and perhaps even defines Allium, a recent arrival to the Great Barrington dining scene, but humble the food surely is not.
My companion and I huddled under the restaurant's awning, trying to neaten ourselves after dashing through a raucous thunderstorm. We were ashamed to enter the lovely restaurant dripping and disheveled, but a friendly waitress invited us in, unaware that we held reservations for that evening.
Our service, which started out with such a kind gesture, only became more outstanding as the evening went on. Rarely have I had such unobtrusive but attentive servers. Our wineglasses were always full, and we were permitted to dally at our table without being forgotten.
The cheapest bottle of red on the menu graced our table first, a pleasantly full-bodied Spanish wine which easily replaced the chill of the rain with a gentle warmth. Fresh, crusty peasant bread followed, accompanied by a dish of exceptionally fruity extra virgin olive oil.
We ordered carefully, intent on selecting dishes which best utilized the tender bounty of early summer. Allium, after all, prides itself on sustainability, not only in the food but in the d?cor, largely made up of reclaimed, recycled and eco-friendly materials.
Cod fritters were our first taste of Chef Joe Nastro's skill. Creamy inside as mashed potatoes, the small golden balls burst with the flavor of the Massachusetts coast. The outsides were fried to a flawless crisp and drizzled with a zingy red pepper aioli. The dish was unapologetic in its resemblance to Cape Cod road food, but the perfect execution reminded me that I was dining in the establishment of a polished professional.
The country salad did not shine so brightly. Local lettuces were drowned in a mustard vinaigrette which left little room for the tender greens to assert themselves. A round of goat cheese iced with a camembert fondue sounded enticing, but sitting alone on the side of the plate, it seemed overly rich and misplaced.
Our entr?es, however, brought us back to the simple glory of the restaurant. Craving something hearty, I ordered the spaghetti Bolognese. Chewy homemade pasta acted as a simple base for the substantial chunks of veal, pork, and lamb that had been slow-cooked into a sauce dotted with kale, carrots, and fennel. Although perhaps a bit over-smoked, the meat was savory and satisfying. The dish didn't dazzle, but it was an excellent version of an Italian classic, comforting in its familiarity.
My companion, however, ordered the star of the evening. The roasted chicken breast and thigh sat simply and without pretense atop a colorful bed of pea, fava and morel risotto and a generous ladle of chicken jus. The risotto was sheer bliss, with the tender flavors of spring singing through the light (a compliment risotto rarely merits) arborio.
Dessert again showed my dining companion's aptitude for ordering. His flourless chocolate cake was light (again, not an adjective such a cake often deserves) and moist. Accented with drizzles of caramel and chocolate and a dollop of vanilla ice cream, the dessert was the ideal ending to such a meal.
My choice was a bit disappointing. The mixed-berry tart with marscapone turned out to have been described backwards, as the tart shell was filled with the sweet, creamy Italian cheese and then merely topped with berries (none of which were in season, and proved as much by their lackluster flavor). All in all, however, I had one of the best meals in recent memory at Allium. As part of a weekend excursion or as a destination, Allium is undoubtedly worth the trip.
