Blue Heron
112 North Main St., Rte. 47,
Sunderland
(413) 665- 2102
Tue.-Sun. 5-9 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 5-10 p.m.
Entries $16-36.
After passing the lovely front porch and walking through the brilliant flower garden, visitors enter Blue Heron through a stately foyer. The graceful confidence that the Blue Heron first exudes, however, is undermined by the stairway to the dining room, which is plastered with a wall's worth of rave reviews from local publications and culinary giants.
The vibe may be serious, but the chef seems to be experimenting with colorful plates and whimsy alongside standard combinations and traditional, elegant presentation. Over stiff cocktails, we nibbled on succulent sea scallops anchored by a modest circle of tender puy lentils. The mellow earthiness of the legumes and the briny seafood were cloaked in homey familiarity by applewood-smoked bacon. An otherwise perfect flavor palette was interrupted by the unusual addition of marscapone cream, a misplaced and meek flavor compared to the other robust components.
A mess of fried calamari couldn't have been more opposite in presentation. An enormous serving of the golden rings, though heightened slightly by pine nuts, a fennel lemon vinaigrette, and brightly flavored Greek salad, seemed more reminiscent of bar snacks than haute cuisine.
Our entrees offered interesting taste combinations and ample use of the August bounty of local farms, but kept me bewildered about Blue Heron's theme. An enormous platter of lamb three ways showed a lack of attention to timing in the kitchen. The sausage was dry and crumbly, too desiccated to offer much by way of flavor. The fattoush salad, despite its success in providing a splash of freshness to counter the richness of the rest of the plate, was untidy. The lamb kebab was more satisfying, moist enough to bring out the Mediterranean flavors of a pomegranate coriander cumin glaze.
The slow-braised lamb ribs were far and away the highlight of the plate, falling off the bone and infused with warm spices. A fire-roasted eggplant and potato puree was deliciously smooth and a welcome variation on the standard meat and potatoes duo.
The rib-eye steak was humbler in its ambitions and, except for another case of overcooking, was well executed. The cut of beef was perched atop a pile of thinly sliced zucchini and summer squash and garlic mashed potatoes. White truffle oil was barely detectable upon tasting. Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano, however, offered necessary salt and flavor. Still, although satisfying, the dish didn't impress, especially given the price.
One of our desserts was spot on, and the other missed entirely. An elegant dome of panna cotta was let down by its garnishes of fresh blueberries (too mild) and a balsamic reduction (far too acidic and strong for the mild custard). My peach raspberry pie, however, neared perfection. A flaky, buttery crust encircled lusciously ripe fruit, skillfully left to its own devices without being over-sweetened. Vanilla ice cream melted slowly down the sides.
Visit the restaurant with no preconceived notions and you're likely to be pleased. But if you've been swayed by reviewers' royal treatment of the restaurant as I had, the dining experience doesn't equate. Blue Heron, although lovely and promising, has some incongruities to work out. If the food is given the consistent treatment it deserves, perhaps the restaurant will warrant the praise that's been lavished upon it.
