Lattitude
1338 Memorial Ave.
West Springfield
(413) 241-8887
Entrees $10-$24
Hours: 11-10 Mon.-Thu., 11-11 Fri.-Sat.
How we managed to forget that the Big E was in full swing in West Springfield the night we decided to go to Lattitude is beyond me. Stuck in traffic for 20 minutes after leaving Rte. 91, my companion and I watched as hundreds of people streamed into the fairgrounds for tastings, rides, and games. When we finally managed to park and make our way through Lattitude's doors, a sizeable waitstaff (indicative of the restaurant's popularity on non-Exposition nights) was lounging by the bar, wearily waiting for customers.
Not dissuaded by the restaurant's emptiness, we found seats all to ourselves in one of its three dining areas. A polished waiter, full of promises that most of the menu items were "out of this world," came up immediately, eager for business.
Lattitude's menu vacillates between identities, so deciding upon the best choices necessitates decisions not only between ingredients and flavors, but between ethnic cuisines and complexity versus simplicity. A wide array of seafood dishes were largely Asian-influenced, although rustic Italian and new American notes appeared. Among the meat and poultry offerings, the choices were more straightforward: grilled and roasted centerpieces cozied up to familiar vegetables.
In an attempt to get a feel for all the facets of Lattitude, we ordered several appetizers and half size-entr?es (the small plate options for all mains is a lovely aspect of the menu). An appetizer that sounded too off the wall to pass up started our meals surprisingly well. Crispy Maryland Peekytoe crab came nestled into a pastry crust, topped with a banana jam and garnished with yellow watermelon broth. The jam's intense sugars and thick texture complemented the crab's lightness.
An inside-out crab and asparagus roll with a chili aioli proved less original. Without any strong flavors, the rolls lacked assertiveness and were completely overpowered by the kicky aoili. The most exciting aspect of the dish was an unusual garnish of crispy smelt, which, though tasty, seemed misplaced on the plate.
A third and most impressive appetizer consisted of shrimp stewed with oven-dried tomatoes, roasted corn and pancetta. The smoky essences of Indian summer swam in a garlicky broth, and the bowl of fresh flavors and tender shrimp was appropriately served with thick slices of white bread for dipping.
For our entrees, we stayed on land and closer to familiar territory. A beautifully cooked beef tenderloin came slathered with saut?ed, quartered mushrooms. Thin, well-crisped French fries provided a classic accompaniment, satisfying if a bit under-salted. An Italian-inspired roast chicken was equally well executed. A tender breast and drumstick duo (well cooked chicken is, to my mind, indicative of true capability in the kitchen) was infused by a jus of roasted onions and tomatoes. A bed of roast potatoes lacked flavor but were easily upstaged by the meat.
Much too full for dessert, we wound down our evening while noting that, in spite of the Exposition across the street, the restaurant was nearly half full and the bar area was hopping. Others must have already known what we discovered that evening: this newcomer to West Springfield is shaking things up a bit, taking risks that succeed more often than not. If Lattitude can draw business even when competing with the Big E, it seems Chef Jeffrey Daigneau is well on his way to success.
