Mesa Verde
10 Fiske Ave. #3, Greenfield
(413) 772-2531
Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Entrées $4-$6.50
I’ve stopped trying Mexican food. So often it’s awful. I mean inedible. Processed cheese atop rubbery meat, dishes devoid of any authentic spice or fresh ingredients. But I’m not too proud to listen to recommendations.
I met a woman at the Greenfield Farmers Market earlier this fall who had been bemoaning the void left in her food repertoire since moving to the Valley from Southern California: frijoles negros con arroz, fresh cilantro year-round, locally grown limes juiced over tender, marinated meats… I was watering at the mouth. Mesa Verde, she said, had been recommended to her again and again by locals. So a few weeks later, searching for a spot for a quick, cheap dinner with a friend, I found myself at Mesa Verde.
I can’t say the menu blew my mind with authentic offerings, but my disappointment was abated when I spotted “margaritas with fresh lime” at the bottom of the giant chalkboard menu. Score!
I hemmed and hawed, conflicted over a smattering of enticing fillings for burritos, taco, rice bowls, and tacos including chorizo, “mojo” (a marinade of fresh orange and lime juices with cumin, cilantro, and chili) pork, and blackened catfish. My dining companion was taking the all-veggie route, so I went for the catfish.
The day was unseasonably warm, so we found a table outside on the brick patio. Sipping our tangy margaritas, we munched through a basket of deliciously light corn chips. The house-made salsa had a consistency a bit too closely related to tomato paste, but chili, cilantro and onions gave an unexpected flavor burst. The guacamole, creamy and dense, was to die for—spiked with fresh lime juice a la our margaritas. I gobbled up my side of the green stuff in minutes, wishing I had more room for another serving.
But dinner hadn’t even begun, and when it did, we realized that, although Mesa Verde may not be authentic Mexican, it is incredibly satisfying comfort food bursting with fresh ingredients and bright flavors.
My companion’s rice bowl was filled to the brim with colorful toppings. Black beans, rice and pico de gallo make up the base for all the bowls on Mesa Verde’s menu, and toppings range from grilled sirloin steak and mojo pork for the carnivorous to spinach and garlic and roasted veggies. Cilantro, fresh lime and avocado topped off a pile of roasted seasonal vegetables on Laura’s bowl, each bite well spiced with cumin and set off by the bright tang of the citrus and the signature snap of cilantro. Creamy chunks of avocado rounded out the stronger flavors.
My blackened catfish was nestled into two soft tortillas. A heap of toppings— including sweet roasted red onions, pico de gallo, chipotle sour cream and well-spiced Mexican rice—added substance to the cubes of flaky fish. I devoured both tacos with ease.
We missed many dishes that have me planning my next trip. Simple taquitos with cheese, chicken or tofu would make a perfect light lunch. Red onion quesadillas, a seemingly misplaced Thai burrito with house peanut sauce, and tortilla soup are high on my list, but I’d happily eat my way through the entire menu. But my feelings about Mesa Verde were clear on the first bite: fresh, clean flavors with smoky cumin, bright green cilantro and fresh lime are always a hit with my palate. Authentic, South-of-the-Border dishes they aren’t, but Mesa Verde’s plates are satisfying, flavorful, and shockingly cheap. Es bastante bueno para mi.
