For more than three years, Whole Foods has been operating a loan program to small farms that are interested in expansion. It is a national program; the loans are for an average of $42,000 and the interest rate can typically be around 6 percent. Only two such loans have been issued in the Valley. One was for the now defunct Old School Bakery and the second evolved into something that may change the way Whole Foods does business.
"Our relationship with Whole Foods started after the fire," says Ed Maltby, the manager of Adams Farm Slaughterhouse. The meat processing center has been in the family for three generations. The fire was in 2006.? "We were looking for a loan since we reopened in November."
Although the loan fell through due to the amount of collateral and ownership that Whole Foods was looking for, according to Maltby, a new deal is in the works. Whole Foods helps Adams meet Whole Foods' inspection criteria.
"Now we're discussing how to meet their standards to increase sales to local farms," says Maltby, who adds that the slaughterhouse currently has the following certifications: USDA, Organic, HALLEL and Animal Welfare. "We want to be Whole Foods-certified so local farmers can sell their meat at Whole Foods. This is presently not possible if they have it slaughtered here because we don't meet their killing and cutting procedural requirements."
The catch is that Whole Foods requires slaughterhouses to distribute the meats directly to Whole Foods. According to Maltby, this is additional work for Adams.
"We don't like dealing with farms on a day-to-day basis and purchasing for Whole Foods," he says. "Our faculty is only 11,000 square feet. Whole Foods typically does business with 200,000 square-foot facilities. Their costs are cheaper because it is done on a larger scale. We're now working on a relationship that is mutually beneficial."
Now, Lee B. Kane, Whole Foods EcoCzar/Forager in the Northeast, has agreed to work out an arrangement for the Hadley branch of the store to buy directly from farmers. This is not currently store policy but an exception is being made for Adams and local providers, according to Kane and Maltby.
"We're willing to compromise and cooperate with everyone," says Kane. "The general program to date on a nationwide basis has been to reach out to small, local producers looking to take on new initiatives and grow, especially if they are looking for ways to be sustainable businesses." As an example, Kane says that a loan might entail providing funding to transition from one kind of farming to animal husbandry.
Pointing out that it is not necessary for a company to be an existing Whole Foods vendor partner, he adds, "Our main intention for providing loans is not for start-ups but to help existing businesses to expand. We will provide components but not financing from the ground up."
According to Kane, one of the greatest challenges to getting locally produced meat into Whole Foods is local production. The effort at Adams might make it possible to make Western Mass. a more significant market for small livestock farms. Currently inspections are underway at Adams in Athol to bring the kill floor up to Whole Foods' standards. Either the slaughterhouse will go from the fire to the frying pan or from the fire to getting local meat onto the shelves at Whole Foods.
Events: Free Harvest Supper
Greenfield Town Common
Sunday, August 16
4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.
Info@freeharvestsupper.org or 413-773-5029 x3
The Fifth Annual Free Harvest Supper will be taking place in Greenfield this month. Come for the free food, the free live music and the free spirit of this event, created to bring back the tradition of sharing the bounty during harvest time. This year over 40 farms will donate food. A groaning board (or many of them) offers bowls and platters of salads, greens, eggplant, corn, perhaps tomatoes and mozzarella, eggplant, hopefully Crenshaw melons and bread. The prep is overseen by the chefs at Hope and Olive Restaurant in Greenfield, as it has been since the beginning. The menu contains inspired takes on local fare such as a peach and turkey salad. There will also be free ice cream from Bart's.
For two reasons, Free Harvest Supper is extremely unusual. The first is that the event raises money through donations for a Farmer's Market Food Stamp program while feeding over 700 people for free, not unlike the miracle of the loaves and fishes. The second is that it is a trash-free event. With an almost zero carbon footprint, the impact of all these people and all this food on the Greenfield Town Common is negligible due to vigilant attention to detail on the part of organizers. Visitors are encouraged to bring their own place settings and compostable and recyclable materials will be used.
In Season: Chili Peppers
A popular yet punishing cleansing diet requires a regime of lemon, cayenne pepper and lots of water. This version, involving chocolate, is a kinder, gentler way to ease into the fast with some locally grown dried red chili peppers. If you have purchased or grown some serranos or other hot peppers, dry them in a brown paper bag or bake them in the oven. Grind just the skins with a mortar and pestle or chop them very fine. None of the rest of the ingredients are local (with the exception of butter, eggs and flour if you happen to be up in Gill).
Chocolate Caliente Cookies
Ingredients
5 ounces bittersweet (60 to 70 percent) chocolate, coarsely chopped
3/4 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
Dash of black pepper
1 tsp. dried red serrano pepper, ground to a powder
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter, softened
1 large local egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Butter for pan
Instructions
Preheat oven to 350.
Place chocolate in bowl over boiling water and heat for a minute or until almost melted, stirring until smooth. Cool to room temperature.
Lightly spoon flour into a dry measuring cup. Combine flour and spices, including pepper. Stir with fork.
Combine honey and butter in a large bowl and beat with a mixer until well blended (about 5 minutes). Add egg; beat well. Add cooled chocolate and vanilla; beat just until blended. Add flour mixture; beat just until blended. Drop dough by level tablespoons 2 inches apart on baking sheets coated with butter. Bake at 350 for 10 minutes or until almost set. Remove from oven. Cool on pans 2 minutes or until set. Remove from pans; cool completely on dish towels.
