This month and until they run out, the folks at Hungry Ghost Bakery in Northampton are handing out packets of seed. "It's Red Fife," says owner Jonathan Stevens who, along with partner Cheryl Maffey, is continuing his quest to get wheat grown in the Pioneer Valley.
The Little Red Hen project has attracted many farmers and residents who have participated over the last several years in "trialing" wheat. Last summer and this year there is a smart little patch of wheat in front of Hungry Ghost on State Street.
Last year's large-scale grain growing efforts resulted in enough grain for both Hungry Ghost and Wheatberry Bakery in Amherst to begin selling bread with grain grown locally, but not wheat so far—just spelt, rye and oats. But it is a huge leap forward to revisit the days when wheat was a viable crop in Western Mass. Why truck it in from the Midwest or Canada?
Last summer, grains, including wheat, were grown on five acres at Lazy Acres in Hadley and 14 acres at White Oak Farm in Belchertown. Stevens is hopeful that by the end of this season's harvest, larger-scale grain producing can begin, based on the results of this season's yields. Currently Hungry Ghost is selling rye bread, spelt bread and crackers with local grains. Wheatberry Bakery is selling rye bread as well as ground rye flour and spelt flour.
Wheat "trialing" continues to help growers figure out how to grow wheat on a large scale. Bakers have determined that there is a market for it. Now growers must be convinced that wheat can indeed be grown here.
To be part of the wheat scene, consider taking a bite out of your lawn to grow some of Jonathan's Red Fife wheat seeds. Wheatberry Bakery owner Ben Lester advises careful consideration when growing where grass used to be: "Growing into sod is not the easiest situation for wheat. If you are sowing into lawn, it's best to remove as much sod as possible to give the wheat a chance. Once you remove the sod you can broadcast about 3/4 of a pound of seed per 10-foot-by-10-foot plot."
He advises that the next step is to rake the seed in and then cover with five or six bags of compost. "Compost will actually help keep the grass down for a little while and provide room and nutrients for the wheat," he added.
Both Wheatberry and Hungry Ghost have a lot of growing going on in communities on either side of the river. There is funding from the New England Farm Institute and Wheatberry's CSA devoted to grains, called Pioneer Valley Heritage Grain, is sold out, but there is a waiting list. This year they are growing amaranth, quinoa and peas as well as wheat, spelt and rye.
Wild Spring Food
Fiddleheads, those funky ferns that turn bright green when you boil them up or roast them, are out in force. Also known as ostrich ferns, fiddleheads, which look like the top of a fiddle, are unfurled ferns usually found near the river or other bodies of water or in marshy areas. They are coveted by chefs because they are the first green thing that is edible to pop out of the ground after winter.
Fiddleheads are all over the place this time of year. Three things to watch out for: they should not be eaten raw. They should not be overcooked. Finally, do not pick the whole patch if you find yourself out foraging because they won't come back next year. Some are toxic, so stick with the ostrich variety, which have a brown papery covering when they come out of the ground before unfurling. If you can't be getting all dirty in your work clothes scaling down the side of a ravine, fiddleheads will be on the menus of lots of area restaurants such as Green Street, Hope and Olive and others, as well as at stores like Atkins. Sometimes they can be foraged at Stop and Shop.
Market News
The old yet new Northampton Co-op, now known as River Valley Market, will celebrate its one-year anniversary this week. The store is a co-op but does not require membership. Much of the food is organic. There is a prepared foods section and a strong showing of non-food items such as essential oils and green detergents.
The co-op is just shy of being in the black for its first year. According to manager Rochelle Prunty, last year's goal was to build sales from zero to $7.4 million. The group, with approximately 900 members, is 10 percent short in the first year of business. Prunty cites inflated gas prices and increased expenses as the causes of "nearly everything" and invites shoppers to vote for a co-op in Northampton with their wallets. River Valley Market will host an anniversary celebration April 30 in the parking lot with food, dancing and music from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Locavore Tip
If you're thinking of getting some ornamental grasses for your yard this year, consider a wheat patch. Not only is it beautiful and tall, but the seeds are free.
The Little Red Hen project and the Pioneer Valley Heritage Grain CSA are in cahoots to get as many people in Western Mass. as possible to grow wheat. The goal is to test soil and determine how various breeds do in the area so the bakers can begin using local wheat in their bread. All it takes is a small plot and some decent mulch (see above).
But what about the neighbors? Exactly. Guerrilla gardening beats keeping up with the Joneses. Seed packets of Red Fife Wheat, enough for a 10-foot-by-10-foot plot, are available at Hungry Ghost Bakery in Northampton.
Recipe of the Week: Fiddleheads
"Gently boil the fiddleheads for 3-10 minutes until they are crunchy but not too soft. Cooking time may vary. When they are bright green, run them under cold water to maintain the color. Melt butter and add a bit of lemon. They really need nothing else. Do not overcook. That will create a bitter taste and brown color." –Blanche Derby, forager.
A Wild Edibles Walk through the Fitzgerald Lake Conservation Area will be led by Blanch Derby on Saturday, May 16 at 1 p.m. Sponsors are River Valley Market and Broad Brook Coalition. Fitzgerald Lake Conservation Area is 591 acres owned by the City of Northampton and co-managed by the Northampton Conservation Commission and Broad Brook Coalition. It contains a 40-acre artificial lake and forest, open meadow and wetland habitats. For more information, contact the Broad Brook Coalition.
