Fireworks
73 Main Street, Brattleboro
(802) 254-2073
Open Sun.-Wed. 5:30 p.m.-9 p.m.,Thu.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m.
Entrees $9-$16.
A generic storefront usually makes me nervous, warning of equally generic food. But on stepping inside Fireworks, I was surprised by a stylish and warm interior and the enticing scents of garlic and pizza crust wafting from the brick oven. Fireworks is a youngster on the Brattleboro scene, but, judging by the rate at which the restaurant filled after opening for dinner, it's clear that its reputation has spread quickly.
Vintage European posters adorn the colorful walls, but the most eye-catching elements of the decor are the wine lists, which are plastered onto empty wine bottles on each table, and the long open kitchen, revealing every move of the chef's team and the blaze roaring in the back of the pizza oven. The menus, both for wine and food, are concise but interesting. Drawing from a myriad of ethnicities, both represent an eclectic, creative approach to dining.
An elegant hearth-roasted pear appetizer provided ample evidence of the restaurant's appeal. The fire had given the pear a fork-tender interior, but added an unusual contrast with a crisp skin. The sweet fruit was stuffed with a dollop of creamy gorgonzola and drizzled with an 8-year balsamic, then wrapped in an impossibly thin strip of prosciutto. To add color and a refreshing antidote to the rich flavors, a bed of fresh, slightly spicy arugula rounded out the plate.
A hefty serving of steamed mussels proved equally enticing. The slippery meat of the mussels was mostly tender, although some proved a bit gritty or suspiciously swollen. But shellfish is always a toss-up. With mussels, the broth tells all. Fresh parsley, lemon, and garlic, dotted with a spoonful of unusually creamy feta, came together in an ambrosial sauce that just begged to be sopped up with the well-crisped garlic-rubbed bread.
Eager to see what other tricks the chef had up his sleeve, we dug into the Blue Moon pizza. Butternut squash, gorgonzola and a sage pesto provided a colorful autumn palate. Despite excellent textures, the pesto had been oversalted drastically even before meeting the sodium-rich gorgonzola, creating a thirst-inducing distraction from the pizza's flavors. The crust, however, was flawless—crisp and paper-thin under the toppings, chewy at the edges.
A second entree of locally made, hand-cut pappardelle topped with a classic Bolognese had the same salt issue as the pizza. The pasta was chewy and aesthetically pleasing with its long, thickly cut strips. The Bolognese was appropriately used as a garnish rather than a drowning dominant presence. But the salt content was just too much to bear, and the Parmesan I sprinkled on before tasting really sent the dish over the edge.
Fireworks certainly has all the ingredients for a lovely Italian eatery, but the staff needs to do some tasting before they send out plates that leave customers gulping bottle after bottle of water. Nevertheless, Fireworks was a surprise to stumble upon, and deserves the crowds it has received. A cozy, modern restaurant offering sophisticated comfort food seems just right as the cooler weather sets in.
