Vero Beach and the rest of Indian River County Florida are a far cry from the fashionista-laden, selfconscious show-off atmosphere that can make Miami a bummer. And the beaches are just as nice, even if they're not topless.
Ok, ok, there are those who love Miami's hipness: that cool South Florida feeling, those many Cubanos and that sizzling nightlife. Contrast that with 'Zero Beach,' as some locals jokingly referred to the city of 21,000. Here the lights go out at 10 p.m. and there's more emphasis on outdoor activities like kayaking or early morning beach strolling.
Our day began on a hot Vero afternoon, driving long, straight Highway 60 from Orlando past endless traffic lights until we reached a big bridge. We looked down and followed sailboats lazily navigating the calm waters below. We were entering Orchid Island, a barrier island with the intercoastal waterway (the Indian River) flowing on one side and the wild Atlantic on the other.
Our accommodations were with Boris Gonzalez, whose family is well known here for the large land holdings and Cuban roots. With his partner Elizabeth Kennedy, Boris has created a cozy boutique hotel called The Caribbean Court, which stands out for its cool decor and updated ambience. One of the first things we did was sit down for some strong Cuban coffee and meet Boris, who was born in Havana and educated and raised in Spain and later the United States. Elizabeth also runs a busy catering company in Vero.
This dynamic pair has created a big buzz on the sleepy island with their Havana Nights piano bar, a compact little bar with mojitos on the menu and a hip clientele. It's packed on the weekends. Elizabeth told us that Vero is called by some "the Hamptons of Miami," where big-city folk come to relax and unwind. Vero is a two-and-a-half-hour drive up the East Coast, but really a world away, she said.
I got a chance to see Orchid Island up close on the seat of a bike I rented from Orchid Island Rentals. It was a great way to get to see the town and the fishermen who ply the waters under the bridge over the intercoastal waterway. Rentals are $20 per day or $47 per week, and well worth it if you want to see the best parts of the island.
About 10 miles up U.S. 1 north is Sebastian Inlet, a famed fishing spot and the home of Captain Hiram. All the folks around here love this local institution, where owner Tom Collins has built a sprawling outdoor bar, restaurant, hotel and entertainment venue. His rock concerts regularly bring in hundreds of partiers, who enjoy the music in a funky, outdoor bar with lights strung in the palm trees and a true Bahamanian sand floor. Across the street is a quieter option, the Inn at Captain Hirams, a simple hotel right near the ocean, where boaters flock and tie up right out at the docks. It's fun to have a drink and watch the activities on the water, with vessels large and small passing by on the intercoastal waterway.
While the beaches on Orchid Island are clean, wide and family-friendly, another way to get to know the place is to take to the water. The woman to call is Kristen Beck of Kayaks Etc., a former member of the U.S. whitewater paddling team. She knows these waterways and the Indian River well and can take you to see birds, manatees and the quiet of nature.
After we returned from our trip, I was asked by a mother of two girls about suggestions for a family vacation. "Vero Beach," I answered quickly, since it's easy to reach, relatively inexpensive, and has beautiful free beaches and plenty of good accommodations. I told her about the kitchenettes at the Driftwood and the funky fun of Captain Hirams in Sebastian Inlet, just ten miles north. I told her how magical it was paddling on the shallow Indian River, with so many birds and even manatees all around—about how quiet and lovely this stretch of the Florida coast can be. It was an easy recommendation to make, thinking back on how much fun I had here.
This article originally appeared on gonomad.com.
